Excited to see what trends came out of Paris fashion week? Check out my round up of the best and the worst to come off of the glittering Parisian runways this season with a few tips of how to style them.
1. The Return of Costume Jewelry
Love it or hate it, costume jewelry has returned for an elegant update that makes a statement and can compete with oversized knits, and can complement the fine geometry of excellent tailoring. The best part is that this trend is easily accessible through your local consignment and thrift stores! Pair oversized earrings and rings with large plain turtlenecks and monochromatic looks to keep the outfit sleek but bold by enunciating the accessories.
2. Sheer Skirts (Sheer Everything)
As fashion editor and critic Vanessa Friedman rightly pointed out in a recent article for the New York Times, the sheer trend that dominated the runways at Chloé and Yves Saint Laurent, the latter the most abrupt and confusing, seems to erroneously equate empowering women while completely exposing them, a contradiction that seems to serve the male gaze more than anything and re-objectify women. In an era in which women globally are facing increased misogyny on account of proliferant ‘alpha male’ diatribes popularized on unregulated social media platforms and violent incel propaganda as well as the extremely visceral political realities of abortion bans in the US and other countries, stripping women down to nothing isn’t remotely empowering. However, both Chloé and Miu Miu, both designed by women, work around this issue with layering and draping which YSL abrogates in favor of being one thin layer of fabric away from public nudity. If you enjoy sheer clothing, or the layering that it can lend itself to, perhaps entertain the sheer skirt trend and layer it over another sheer skirt or over a pair of patterned tights… or just wear a silk skirt, it feels like wearing nothing at all anyway.
3. Riding Boots
These aren’t the same boots that haunted Pinterest in the mid-2010s (Christian girl autumn for example… a trend many of us non-denominational or non-Christian folk couldn’t fully get into), but rather have been re-crafted perhaps in a prophetic post-apocalyptic gesture (what does Gucci know about the future that we don’t?) to feature heavy soles, sleek monochromatic leather, military inspired details, and horrifying irony. With multiple wars mutilating the global horizon this trend almost seems perverse if not historically ignorant, so if, like me, you don’t see yourself goose-stepping anywhere anytime soon, feel free to pass on this trend and stick to whatever makes you feel comfortable. If you do happen to like this trend, aim for a more equestrian inspired get-up or pair it with English country-side apparel and whatever you do, do not pair it with beige, just trust me as a historian.
4. Wedges of All Shapes and Sizes
Diet-Prada memes aside, the Chloé wedges inaugurate a fresh take on the classic wedge that is effortless Bohemian and can transcend from the runway to the street or the coast, ideally paired with a sundress or even just a white t-shirt and jeans, a versatility that reaffirms the timeless French cool of this female-forward and designed brand.
At Dries Van Noten, the wedges arrived on expertly crafted boots that felt quite modern with inverted shapes, interesting textures, and forms that have come to characterize this refreshingly eclectic brand. These boots are the perfect antidote to the overwhelming lassitude inspired by the past year’s juggernaut “quiet-luxury” trend which was dominated by neutrals and uncomplicated but ultimately boring shapes.
5. Tartan
My Scottish roots thoroughly enjoy the return of tartan (though did it ever really go away?) in myriad new renditions exemplifying the versatility of the pattern with its infinite color combinations that were refreshed at Paco Rabanne with pastels and jewel tones layered as cardigans or over chainmail skirts. Follow Paco Rabbane’s lead and wear your tartan with unexpected flashes of metallics for a look that is sophisticated yet decidedly punk and harkens back to Medieval Scottish heritage.
6. Leopard Print
Jersey-shore fans and Rhode Island residents, this one's for you! At its best, leopard print harkens back to 70s and 80s glam-rock chic and at its worst incarnates a sad recreation of the bizarre Mob Wife trend that has flooded an already oversaturated aesthetic market on Tiktok. For a chic interpretation of the trend that serves just the right amount of elegance and camp, opt for a leopard print faux-fur coat, leopard print heels, or thrift a Dior leopard print trench look-alike, each of which are guaranteed to never go out of style and add just the right amount of bombastic color without any derogatory socio-cultural implications.
7. A Feast for the Eyes
The Balmain show was packed full of gastronomic garnishes, favoring intricately beaded grapes and massive golden shells that imitated both art and armor. Olivier Rousteing’s dedication to extolling the sartorial power of the grape is oddly thrilling in a way that is both impressively campy and reminiscent of sumptuous homoerotic Carravaggio paintings of curly haired, doe eyed boys posed behind cornucopias, the likes of which were stitched onto jackets, dresses and more of this season's Balmain collection. Combine the preponderance of grape-affiliated accessories and prints that dominated at Balmain (and last season’s Etro) with the all-over leopard print from Dior for the ultimate Bacchanal aesthetic™ that is reminiscent of ancient hedonism and could be as easily seen on Caligula or Cher - talk about ‘old money’.
8. Skirt Suits
Dust off your grandmother’s skirt suits because Dior is bringing them back in a big swinging 60s mod way. If you don’t have one at home, store bought is fine and this is a trend best thrifted (in Paris especially!). Take it to your local tailor to have the suit customized to your exact proportions, crop the skirt, or dye the color, pair it with patent leather mary janes or knee high boots and you’ll look runway ready!